Thứ Ba, 18 tháng 9, 2018


Rất nhiều người trong số chúng ta đã quá quen thuộc về loài hoa lan hồ điệp rồi đúng không? Loài hoa không chỉ cóm một vẻ đẹp hoàn hảo mà nó còn mang những ý nghĩa sâu sắc. Và được biết, đây cũng là một trong những loài hoa có rất nhiều các màu sắc khác nhau như: xanh, đỏ, hồng, vàng, tím.... Mỗi một màu sắc lại mang một vẻ đẹp riêng. Nhưng sự đơn điệu về một màu sắc đôi khi khiến người thưởng thức hoa cảm thấy nhàm chán. Và điều họ muốn bây giờ là có sự kết hợp về màu sắc giữa màu sắc của các loài hoa này lại với nhau. Người ta gọi đó là lan hồ điệp đa sắc. Bạn đã biết gì về loài hoa này chưa? Cùng Shop hoa Mrhoa.com chúng tôi đi tìm lời giải đáp và những tìm hiểu chi tiết qua chia sẻ dưới đây nhé!
Hiện nay, những sản phẩm lan hồ điệp đa sắc đã và đang được rất nhiều khách hàng ưa chuộng và tin tưởng lựa chọn. Bởi đa màu sắc nó sẽ mang đến cho chúng ta một không gian tươi mới với tràn đầy màu sắc khác nhau. 
hoa lan ho diep da sac


Rất nhiều người trong số chúng ta đã quá quen thuộc về loài hoa lan hồ điệp rồi đúng không? Loài hoa không chỉ cóm một vẻ đẹp hoàn hảo mà nó còn mang những ý nghĩa sâu sắc. Và được biết, đây cũng là một trong những loài hoa có rất nhiều các màu sắc khác nhau như: xanh, đỏ, hồng, vàng, tím.... Mỗi một màu sắc lại mang một vẻ đẹp riêng. Nhưng sự đơn điệu về một màu sắc đôi khi khiến người thưởng thức hoa cảm thấy nhàm chán. Và điều họ muốn bây giờ là có sự kết hợp về màu sắc giữa màu sắc của các loài hoa này lại với nhau. Người ta gọi đó là lan hồ điệp đa sắc. Bạn đã biết gì về loài hoa này chưa? Cùng Shop hoa Mrhoa.com chúng tôi đi tìm lời giải đáp và những tìm hiểu chi tiết qua chia sẻ dưới đây nhé!
Hiện nay, những sản phẩm lan hồ điệp đa sắc đã và đang được rất nhiều khách hàng ưa chuộng và tin tưởng lựa chọn. Bởi đa màu sắc nó sẽ mang đến cho chúng ta một không gian tươi mới với tràn đầy màu sắc khác nhau. 
hoa lan ho diep da sac

Thứ Hai, 3 tháng 9, 2018

Nghệ thuật chọn hoa, tặng hoa sinh nhật tưởng chừng như đơn giản. Nhưng thực tế thì còn có rất nhiều điều mà chúng ta chưa biết. Và trong khuôn khổ của chia sẻ này thì Shop hoa Mrhoa chúng tôi sẽ chia sẻ đến bạn đọc cách chọn hoa sinh nhật cho người mệnh Hỏa. Chi tiết như thế nào thì hãy cùng với chúng tôi theo dõi chia sẻ dưới đây để hiểu rõ hơn nhé.

1. Đặc điểm của người mệnh Hỏa

Mỗi người chúng ta sẽ có những tính cách, đặc điểm khác nhau. Nhưng khi xét thì chúng tôi thấy rằng những người mệnh Hỏa sẽ có một số đặc điểm giống nhau. Cụ thể như: họ là người năng động, dễ bị lôi cuốn và kích động. Và đặc biệt là dù ở bất cứ nơi nào thì những người mệnh Hỏa đều được khả năng để tỏa sáng và luôn thay đổi bản thân mình. Với những đặc điểm này thì khi chọn hoa sinh nhật cho người mệnh Hỏa thì các bạn chú ý là cần phải xét đến yếu tố về những giá trị và ý nghĩa từ món quà đó mang lại cho người nhận.

2. Các màu sắc hoa phù hợp với người mệnh Hỏa

Mỗi mệnh sẽ phù hợp với những màu sắc khác nhau. Và theo như tìm hiểu thì chúng tôi thấy rằng: theo thuyết ngũ hành của thời Trung Hoa thì hầu hết là những người mang mệnh hỏa đều thích hợp với các màu của gam nóng. Điều này để nói để sức sống cùng với sự sáng tạo luôn tràn đầy trong con người họ. Và theo kiến thức phong thủy thì Mộc sinh Hỏa nên những loài hoa có gam nóng như: xanh lá cây hoặc xanh da trời là những lựa chọn về màu sắc vô cùng phù hợp.

3. Ý nghĩa màu sắc hoa dành cho người mệnh Hỏa

Như chúng tôi cũng đã nói thì mỗi màu sắc sẽ mang một ý nghĩa khác nhau. Và sau đây sẽ là ý nghĩa về màu sắc hoa dành cho người mệnh Hỏa:

- Màu tím: tím chính là sắc màu tượng trưng cho những người mệnh Hỏa bởi nó sắc tím là muốn nói đến sự thủy chung. Trong công việc thì họ là những người mà luôn kiên cường khi đưa ra quyết định một việc gì đó và cũng rất khó có điều gì tác động mà có thể hiện họ thay đổi ý kiến của bản thân. Còn trong tình yêu, những cô gái mệnh hỏa đa phần đều là những người chung thủy, một lòng một dạ với người yêu. Vì thế mà một bó hoa sinh nhật màu tím cho cô nàng mệnh hỏa là không thể bỏ qua.
hoa sinh nhat mau tim cho nguoi menh hoa

Nghệ thuật chọn hoa, tặng hoa sinh nhật tưởng chừng như đơn giản. Nhưng thực tế thì còn có rất nhiều điều mà chúng ta chưa biết. Và trong khuôn khổ của chia sẻ này thì Shop hoa Mrhoa chúng tôi sẽ chia sẻ đến bạn đọc cách chọn hoa sinh nhật cho người mệnh Hỏa. Chi tiết như thế nào thì hãy cùng với chúng tôi theo dõi chia sẻ dưới đây để hiểu rõ hơn nhé.

1. Đặc điểm của người mệnh Hỏa

Mỗi người chúng ta sẽ có những tính cách, đặc điểm khác nhau. Nhưng khi xét thì chúng tôi thấy rằng những người mệnh Hỏa sẽ có một số đặc điểm giống nhau. Cụ thể như: họ là người năng động, dễ bị lôi cuốn và kích động. Và đặc biệt là dù ở bất cứ nơi nào thì những người mệnh Hỏa đều được khả năng để tỏa sáng và luôn thay đổi bản thân mình. Với những đặc điểm này thì khi chọn hoa sinh nhật cho người mệnh Hỏa thì các bạn chú ý là cần phải xét đến yếu tố về những giá trị và ý nghĩa từ món quà đó mang lại cho người nhận.

2. Các màu sắc hoa phù hợp với người mệnh Hỏa

Mỗi mệnh sẽ phù hợp với những màu sắc khác nhau. Và theo như tìm hiểu thì chúng tôi thấy rằng: theo thuyết ngũ hành của thời Trung Hoa thì hầu hết là những người mang mệnh hỏa đều thích hợp với các màu của gam nóng. Điều này để nói để sức sống cùng với sự sáng tạo luôn tràn đầy trong con người họ. Và theo kiến thức phong thủy thì Mộc sinh Hỏa nên những loài hoa có gam nóng như: xanh lá cây hoặc xanh da trời là những lựa chọn về màu sắc vô cùng phù hợp.

3. Ý nghĩa màu sắc hoa dành cho người mệnh Hỏa

Như chúng tôi cũng đã nói thì mỗi màu sắc sẽ mang một ý nghĩa khác nhau. Và sau đây sẽ là ý nghĩa về màu sắc hoa dành cho người mệnh Hỏa:

- Màu tím: tím chính là sắc màu tượng trưng cho những người mệnh Hỏa bởi nó sắc tím là muốn nói đến sự thủy chung. Trong công việc thì họ là những người mà luôn kiên cường khi đưa ra quyết định một việc gì đó và cũng rất khó có điều gì tác động mà có thể hiện họ thay đổi ý kiến của bản thân. Còn trong tình yêu, những cô gái mệnh hỏa đa phần đều là những người chung thủy, một lòng một dạ với người yêu. Vì thế mà một bó hoa sinh nhật màu tím cho cô nàng mệnh hỏa là không thể bỏ qua.
hoa sinh nhat mau tim cho nguoi menh hoa

Thứ Hai, 6 tháng 8, 2018


Over a very short period of time the carefully balanced nutrient solution you have mixed will become depleted of some nutrients more than others because the plants naturally will absorb what they need more than than what they dont. Some gardeners change their nutrient solution every 5 days or so. I dont recommend going longer than two weeks before completely removing the old nutrient, cleaning the tank if it is possible to do so and then mixing fresh solution. It is also good practise to flush the whole hydroponic system out by replacing the nutrient solution with fresh water and running your pump for 24 hours straight to loosen and remove built up nutrient salts. This should be done every four weeks or so. Passive hydroponic users can flush their pots under gentle running water or simply feed the plants plain water periodically to achieve the same results. 

In most hydroponic systems the nutrient solution is really just water with fertilizer added. The nutrient solution and its delivery to the plants root system form the core of hydroponics and the success of your crops will depend on your ability to guage what the nutrient solution is delivering to your plants. If the nutrient solution is too weak the plants will be deprived of elements necessary for their healthy growth. If the nutrient solution is too strong the plants roots will be burnt. Either way their growth will be stunted. How do we measure effectively the strength of our hydroponic nutrient? The most common way to test your hydroponic solutions strength is using a gadget called a CF truncheon. A CF truncheon is usually about a foot long with a number of LED's up the side that light up to indicate the strength of the solution. What the truncheon actually measures is the electrical conductivity of your nutrient, the higher the conductivity the more nutrient salts are present in the water. Simply dip the appropriate end of the truncheon into the nutrient solution and give it a few seconds to adjust to the temperature. The LED's next to the nutrients strength will light up or blink. 

Most truncheons have a number of different scales on the side. Which you use is up to the individual. I use the CF scale (conductivity factor), others may prefer the EC (Electro-Conductivity) or PPM (Parts Per Million) scales. PPM appears to more popular in the US and CF is used just about everywhere else. 

Different plants need different nutrient strengths as they have different requirements and this is more obvious with vegetables than flowering plants or ornamentals. Strawberries as an example are bitter tasting if grown with a CF higher than 24 and lettuce will most definetely benefit from being down around the 6 mark. Tobacco and most flowering plants will grow well at a CF of 18 but most weeds, particularly that whacky one, will grow with a CF of 22-28 without any ill effects. If you are unsure as to the best nutrient strength for your favourite plant experiment and make notes as to what you have done. Observe the plants, are they pale and slow growing? Try increasing the nutrient strength. Did they start out dark green then the leaves curled over and they died? The nutrient was too strong. 


Always use the highest quality nutrient solution available to you and make sure that it is a complete formula containing all of the necessary macro- and micronutrients. It is very common for nutrients to be available in two types, one type for vegetative growth which contains more of the nutrients necessary for rapid growth and good plant development and the other for the flowering stage, containing more of the nutrients required for good flowers or fruit. Use the one most suitable for the stage of growth your plants are in. A hydroponics shop is by far the best place for your hydro supplies. A buffering solution such as Bio Earth Sea Acids can increase crop yield quite markedly by keeping the nutrient PH level around the optimum, which is 6.0 - 6.5 for many plants. Add the sea acids first as it contains nutrients as well that will increase your CF then add the nutrient. Most off-the-shelf hydroponic nutrients are two part solutions and you should allow it to mix well with the water before measuring the CF. A few millilitres of superthrive is also a good addition to your nutrient solution and you can really see the difference in the health of your plants when you start using it. The barest minimum that your garden requires is the hydroponic nutrients and if you dont feel the extra expense is warranted you can skip the extras and still get reasonable yields. 

The hydroponic nutrient solution in your tank should never be allowed to drop below 15 degrees celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) or nutrient uptake will be aversely affected. Ideally the nutrient solution should be between 18-24 degrees celsius (65-75 degrees fahrenheit) and it is easier to heat the nutrient solution that it is to heat the whole room up in winter. An aquarium heater with an adjustable thermostat will keep your tank in the right range. An important thing to bear in mind that the water will evaporate from the nutrient solution but the nutrients will not, effectively making the solution stronger. This is more apparent when the tank is heated and the room is cold. Measure its strength at least every second day and add additional water if it gets too strong. If you dont have a cF truncheon you can compensate for evaporation by topping the tank up with plain water but bear in mind that this may weaken your nutrient solution. 

Controlling your pH level can be important, particularly if you are not using a buffering solution and your chosen plant requires very acidic nutrient. Most plants will grow happily in a pH level of around 6-7. Water generally has a pH of 7 so you can get away with a plain water and hydroponic nutrient mixture in your tank. Most plants will grow ok if the pH is less than optimal however nutrient uptake is inhibited. Your hydroponic supplier can provide chemicals which can help you adjust the pH of your tank and I have used these in the past with great success. The best advice for beginners is select crops that will grow in the 6.0-7.5 range and simply not worry about the pH level until you have gotten more adept an hydroponic gardening. You can focus on squeezing the most out of your plants when you have become more proficient. 

Over a very short period of time the carefully balanced nutrient solution you have mixed will become depleted of some nutrients more than others because the plants naturally will absorb what they need more than than what they dont. Some gardeners change their nutrient solution every 5 days or so. I dont recommend going longer than two weeks before completely removing the old nutrient, cleaning the tank if it is possible to do so and then mixing fresh solution. It is also good practise to flush the whole hydroponic system out by replacing the nutrient solution with fresh water and running your pump for 24 hours straight to loosen and remove built up nutrient salts. This should be done every four weeks or so. Passive hydroponic users can flush their pots under gentle running water or simply feed the plants plain water periodically to achieve the same results.


As a final extra touch for an active hydroponics system such as flood and drain or top feed is to consider getting an aquarium aerator and putting it into your tank. It will keep your nutrient solution well mixed and aerated. 

Foliar Feeding

Foliar feeding makes nutrients immediately available to your crops by misting the leaves with fertilizer or nutrient solution using a hand or pump sprayer. The nutrients are absorbed directly into the leaves. 

This can be immediately usefull if your plants have become sick or the nutrient levels in your media have built up to the point where they are toxic to your plants. If this is the case the media is leached (flushed with several litres of water, soaked and flushed again) and the plant is then foliar fed to directly deliver nutrients to the leaves. Foliar feeding can have an almost instant effect and leaves that were pale green and dying can return to a lush green state in the space of less than a day. 

Some growers periodically foliar feed to keep the plants growing at their best however be fairly warned that it is easy to over foliar feed your crops. If they are foliar fed to much the nutrient solution, particularly if it is a weak mixture, can leach the nutrients from the leaves and cause your plants to become very sick and unproductive. A mixture that is too strong can block the stomata in the leaves leaving the plants unable to photosynthesise. 

As a general guide allow your plants to grow to at least two weeks of age before you start foliar feeding and never foliar feed at less than five day intervals. Mix the nutrient solution you intend to foliar feed with at twenty five percent of the strength that you would apply to the roots. So as an example if the recommended nutrient strength for your crop is a cF of 20 then mix your foliar feed to a cF of 5.


Over a very short period of time the carefully balanced nutrient solution you have mixed will become depleted of some nutrients more than others because the plants naturally will absorb what they need more than than what they dont. Some gardeners change their nutrient solution every 5 days or so. I dont recommend going longer than two weeks before completely removing the old nutrient, cleaning the tank if it is possible to do so and then mixing fresh solution. It is also good practise to flush the whole hydroponic system out by replacing the nutrient solution with fresh water and running your pump for 24 hours straight to loosen and remove built up nutrient salts. This should be done every four weeks or so. Passive hydroponic users can flush their pots under gentle running water or simply feed the plants plain water periodically to achieve the same results. 

In most hydroponic systems the nutrient solution is really just water with fertilizer added. The nutrient solution and its delivery to the plants root system form the core of hydroponics and the success of your crops will depend on your ability to guage what the nutrient solution is delivering to your plants. If the nutrient solution is too weak the plants will be deprived of elements necessary for their healthy growth. If the nutrient solution is too strong the plants roots will be burnt. Either way their growth will be stunted. How do we measure effectively the strength of our hydroponic nutrient? The most common way to test your hydroponic solutions strength is using a gadget called a CF truncheon. A CF truncheon is usually about a foot long with a number of LED's up the side that light up to indicate the strength of the solution. What the truncheon actually measures is the electrical conductivity of your nutrient, the higher the conductivity the more nutrient salts are present in the water. Simply dip the appropriate end of the truncheon into the nutrient solution and give it a few seconds to adjust to the temperature. The LED's next to the nutrients strength will light up or blink. 

Most truncheons have a number of different scales on the side. Which you use is up to the individual. I use the CF scale (conductivity factor), others may prefer the EC (Electro-Conductivity) or PPM (Parts Per Million) scales. PPM appears to more popular in the US and CF is used just about everywhere else. 

Different plants need different nutrient strengths as they have different requirements and this is more obvious with vegetables than flowering plants or ornamentals. Strawberries as an example are bitter tasting if grown with a CF higher than 24 and lettuce will most definetely benefit from being down around the 6 mark. Tobacco and most flowering plants will grow well at a CF of 18 but most weeds, particularly that whacky one, will grow with a CF of 22-28 without any ill effects. If you are unsure as to the best nutrient strength for your favourite plant experiment and make notes as to what you have done. Observe the plants, are they pale and slow growing? Try increasing the nutrient strength. Did they start out dark green then the leaves curled over and they died? The nutrient was too strong. 


Always use the highest quality nutrient solution available to you and make sure that it is a complete formula containing all of the necessary macro- and micronutrients. It is very common for nutrients to be available in two types, one type for vegetative growth which contains more of the nutrients necessary for rapid growth and good plant development and the other for the flowering stage, containing more of the nutrients required for good flowers or fruit. Use the one most suitable for the stage of growth your plants are in. A hydroponics shop is by far the best place for your hydro supplies. A buffering solution such as Bio Earth Sea Acids can increase crop yield quite markedly by keeping the nutrient PH level around the optimum, which is 6.0 - 6.5 for many plants. Add the sea acids first as it contains nutrients as well that will increase your CF then add the nutrient. Most off-the-shelf hydroponic nutrients are two part solutions and you should allow it to mix well with the water before measuring the CF. A few millilitres of superthrive is also a good addition to your nutrient solution and you can really see the difference in the health of your plants when you start using it. The barest minimum that your garden requires is the hydroponic nutrients and if you dont feel the extra expense is warranted you can skip the extras and still get reasonable yields. 

The hydroponic nutrient solution in your tank should never be allowed to drop below 15 degrees celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) or nutrient uptake will be aversely affected. Ideally the nutrient solution should be between 18-24 degrees celsius (65-75 degrees fahrenheit) and it is easier to heat the nutrient solution that it is to heat the whole room up in winter. An aquarium heater with an adjustable thermostat will keep your tank in the right range. An important thing to bear in mind that the water will evaporate from the nutrient solution but the nutrients will not, effectively making the solution stronger. This is more apparent when the tank is heated and the room is cold. Measure its strength at least every second day and add additional water if it gets too strong. If you dont have a cF truncheon you can compensate for evaporation by topping the tank up with plain water but bear in mind that this may weaken your nutrient solution. 

Controlling your pH level can be important, particularly if you are not using a buffering solution and your chosen plant requires very acidic nutrient. Most plants will grow happily in a pH level of around 6-7. Water generally has a pH of 7 so you can get away with a plain water and hydroponic nutrient mixture in your tank. Most plants will grow ok if the pH is less than optimal however nutrient uptake is inhibited. Your hydroponic supplier can provide chemicals which can help you adjust the pH of your tank and I have used these in the past with great success. The best advice for beginners is select crops that will grow in the 6.0-7.5 range and simply not worry about the pH level until you have gotten more adept an hydroponic gardening. You can focus on squeezing the most out of your plants when you have become more proficient. 

Over a very short period of time the carefully balanced nutrient solution you have mixed will become depleted of some nutrients more than others because the plants naturally will absorb what they need more than than what they dont. Some gardeners change their nutrient solution every 5 days or so. I dont recommend going longer than two weeks before completely removing the old nutrient, cleaning the tank if it is possible to do so and then mixing fresh solution. It is also good practise to flush the whole hydroponic system out by replacing the nutrient solution with fresh water and running your pump for 24 hours straight to loosen and remove built up nutrient salts. This should be done every four weeks or so. Passive hydroponic users can flush their pots under gentle running water or simply feed the plants plain water periodically to achieve the same results.


As a final extra touch for an active hydroponics system such as flood and drain or top feed is to consider getting an aquarium aerator and putting it into your tank. It will keep your nutrient solution well mixed and aerated. 

Foliar Feeding

Foliar feeding makes nutrients immediately available to your crops by misting the leaves with fertilizer or nutrient solution using a hand or pump sprayer. The nutrients are absorbed directly into the leaves. 

This can be immediately usefull if your plants have become sick or the nutrient levels in your media have built up to the point where they are toxic to your plants. If this is the case the media is leached (flushed with several litres of water, soaked and flushed again) and the plant is then foliar fed to directly deliver nutrients to the leaves. Foliar feeding can have an almost instant effect and leaves that were pale green and dying can return to a lush green state in the space of less than a day. 

Some growers periodically foliar feed to keep the plants growing at their best however be fairly warned that it is easy to over foliar feed your crops. If they are foliar fed to much the nutrient solution, particularly if it is a weak mixture, can leach the nutrients from the leaves and cause your plants to become very sick and unproductive. A mixture that is too strong can block the stomata in the leaves leaving the plants unable to photosynthesise. 

As a general guide allow your plants to grow to at least two weeks of age before you start foliar feeding and never foliar feed at less than five day intervals. Mix the nutrient solution you intend to foliar feed with at twenty five percent of the strength that you would apply to the roots. So as an example if the recommended nutrient strength for your crop is a cF of 20 then mix your foliar feed to a cF of 5.

Chủ Nhật, 29 tháng 7, 2018


The growing medium serves the vital role of providing support to the root system of the plant and allow the roots access to the oxygen, water and nutrients that are important for the wellbeing of your chosen crop. 

There are numerous different type of hydroponic media and selecting the media appropriate to the method of hydroponics that you use can pay dividends in crop yield and the growing performance of your plants. The hydroponic media that you select will completely replace the use of soil and must allow the plant roots access to oxygen and nutrient solution in appropriate amounts. Wick feed systems will work better with perlite and vermiculite mixed at a ratio somewhere between 5:1 and 10:1 (more perlite, the white one) as this mixture will allow water to climb up from the reservoir through the medium more effectively than hydroclay. A top feed system on the other hand works well if the plant is grown in a rockwool cube placed on top of a bed of hydroclay where the nutrient will drain more freely when the pump is not running and encourage aeration. This combination works acceptably for flood and drain systems too. 

As a general guide consider the way your root system will have nutrient delivered to it. Active hydroponics systems such as top feed or flood and drain systems will have nutrient delivered to it automatically because smart growers will put their pump on a timer. The timer will run for a specific duration a set number of times during the day saturating the roots and the interval between pumping times can be fine tuned so that the plants have time for the nutrient solution to drain and the roots to receive oxygen. Passive hydroponics on the other hand relies on the growing medium being moistened by capillary action, that is the nutrient solution will dampen the media that it is exposed to and will climb from the reservoir to surround the root system. Media used in this method should be able to retain moisture and air at the same time. Although all hydroponic media has this property the proportion of air and nutrient varies between the different types. 

When evaluating a soilless medium for use consider its texture and partical size. Fibrous materials such as perlite/vermiculite, peat or some coconut products hold a great deal of moisture in their cells and have smaller particles making them ideal for wick systems. Irregularly shaped materials have more surface area and can hold more water but avoid anything with very sharp edges as this can cut your plants roots. Larger particles such as pea gravel, crushed brick or hydroclay drain faster and hold more air making them ideal for active hydroponic systems. 

Rockwool should definetely not be overlooked and for raising seedlings or cuttings it is invaluable. It is inert, sterile, porous and provides good firm support for root systems. Even when completely saturated rockwool can still hold up to 20% air. Its major drawback is that it has a PH of 7.8-8 and buffering may be required to bring the PH down to 6.5. Rockwool is usually purchased in cubes about 10cm high wide and long or in slabs of varius sizes, most commonly 20cm X 20 CM X 100cm. I have had good results using rockwool in my top feed system. I generally raise my cuttings in a seedling sized cube about 3cm X 3cm X 5cm. When they have started to grow and the roots are starting to protrude through the side of the cube I transfer them from the cutting tray into a 250mm standard plastic pot. The pots bottom should be filled with hydroclay at least 5cm deep, then the next layer is simply cut from a rockwool slab and is about 15cm deep. The young plant is placed in a 10cm rockwool cube on top of the rockwool slab and then hydroclay is added around the sides of that cube to hold it in place. 

Regardless of your choice of hydroponic medium it should be sterilized as best can be done before it is used. In the very least place it under running water to remove any dust or particles resulting from the medias manufacture. Rock wool should be soaked in water for an hour and rinsed thoroughly before use. During the course of the growing season salts and other undesirables will build up in the medium making it toxic to your plants. With active systems every two weeks or so the nutrient should be replaced with water and the pump run for 24 hours straight to loosen up, dilute and remove built up undesirable material. Wick systems can be taken outside and flushed for half an hour with a hose or, if this is impractical, fed with straight water for a few days. 


The growing medium serves the vital role of providing support to the root system of the plant and allow the roots access to the oxygen, water and nutrients that are important for the wellbeing of your chosen crop. 

There are numerous different type of hydroponic media and selecting the media appropriate to the method of hydroponics that you use can pay dividends in crop yield and the growing performance of your plants. The hydroponic media that you select will completely replace the use of soil and must allow the plant roots access to oxygen and nutrient solution in appropriate amounts. Wick feed systems will work better with perlite and vermiculite mixed at a ratio somewhere between 5:1 and 10:1 (more perlite, the white one) as this mixture will allow water to climb up from the reservoir through the medium more effectively than hydroclay. A top feed system on the other hand works well if the plant is grown in a rockwool cube placed on top of a bed of hydroclay where the nutrient will drain more freely when the pump is not running and encourage aeration. This combination works acceptably for flood and drain systems too. 

As a general guide consider the way your root system will have nutrient delivered to it. Active hydroponics systems such as top feed or flood and drain systems will have nutrient delivered to it automatically because smart growers will put their pump on a timer. The timer will run for a specific duration a set number of times during the day saturating the roots and the interval between pumping times can be fine tuned so that the plants have time for the nutrient solution to drain and the roots to receive oxygen. Passive hydroponics on the other hand relies on the growing medium being moistened by capillary action, that is the nutrient solution will dampen the media that it is exposed to and will climb from the reservoir to surround the root system. Media used in this method should be able to retain moisture and air at the same time. Although all hydroponic media has this property the proportion of air and nutrient varies between the different types. 

When evaluating a soilless medium for use consider its texture and partical size. Fibrous materials such as perlite/vermiculite, peat or some coconut products hold a great deal of moisture in their cells and have smaller particles making them ideal for wick systems. Irregularly shaped materials have more surface area and can hold more water but avoid anything with very sharp edges as this can cut your plants roots. Larger particles such as pea gravel, crushed brick or hydroclay drain faster and hold more air making them ideal for active hydroponic systems. 

Rockwool should definetely not be overlooked and for raising seedlings or cuttings it is invaluable. It is inert, sterile, porous and provides good firm support for root systems. Even when completely saturated rockwool can still hold up to 20% air. Its major drawback is that it has a PH of 7.8-8 and buffering may be required to bring the PH down to 6.5. Rockwool is usually purchased in cubes about 10cm high wide and long or in slabs of varius sizes, most commonly 20cm X 20 CM X 100cm. I have had good results using rockwool in my top feed system. I generally raise my cuttings in a seedling sized cube about 3cm X 3cm X 5cm. When they have started to grow and the roots are starting to protrude through the side of the cube I transfer them from the cutting tray into a 250mm standard plastic pot. The pots bottom should be filled with hydroclay at least 5cm deep, then the next layer is simply cut from a rockwool slab and is about 15cm deep. The young plant is placed in a 10cm rockwool cube on top of the rockwool slab and then hydroclay is added around the sides of that cube to hold it in place. 

Regardless of your choice of hydroponic medium it should be sterilized as best can be done before it is used. In the very least place it under running water to remove any dust or particles resulting from the medias manufacture. Rock wool should be soaked in water for an hour and rinsed thoroughly before use. During the course of the growing season salts and other undesirables will build up in the medium making it toxic to your plants. With active systems every two weeks or so the nutrient should be replaced with water and the pump run for 24 hours straight to loosen up, dilute and remove built up undesirable material. Wick systems can be taken outside and flushed for half an hour with a hose or, if this is impractical, fed with straight water for a few days. 

Thứ Sáu, 20 tháng 7, 2018

There are several different systems used in hydroponic gardening and all of them are meant to improve the growers control over nutrient, water and oxygen supplies to the roots of the plant. In a hydroponics system the medium used in place of soil contains no nutrients of its own and these are supplied by the nutrient solution. The nutrient solution is circulated around the roots by any one of a number of methods and then is allowed to drain off. The extra oxygen around the roots allows the plants to take up nutrients faster and thus grow faster. It is a misconception that plant roots only require water and fertilizer, if this was all the plant roots received it would grow poorly and probably eventually die. 

The power of hydroponics is the ability to create a continuous cycle of watering, draining and aerating. The plants uptake of nutrients is increased and it grows in a more prolific manner. We can really consider there to be two types of hydroponic systems, passive and active. Passive hydroponics works by the capillary action of the wick and growing medium. Active hydroponics actively moves the nutrient over the roots and growing medium by way of a pump or similar device. There are four methods of hydroponics that I would consider suitable for beginners to attempt. Hydroponics is much more exact than soil gardening and we would suggest that you start small until you have learned your way a little bit before concreting your back yard and filling it full of hydroponic trays. 

Wick Feed

Wick Feed hydroponic methodThe Wick Feed pot is in my opinion the best way to learn the basics of hydroponics. They are readily available in many guises, cheap to purchase and economical to run. I have had excellent results with a 90/10 perlite/vermiculite mix in a wick feed pot purchased for a few dollars from my local K-Mart. 

The Media is placed in the wick feed pot, which resembles a normal plant pot with a reservoir underneath. The plant of course is also placed in the the pot in the media when it is a seedling. As the plant grows its roots will run into the reservoir through the holes in the bottom of the pot and it will drink directly from the reservoir. Particularly when the plant is young I recommend watering them from the top of the pot and allowing it to run into the reservoir through the growing media. It is wise to water in this fashion until the plants roots have visibly made it into the reservoir. 

On some wick feed pots the reservoir is removable and I recommend these as they are easier to clean when you are replanting. Do not remove it while you are growing in the pot as damaged roots will retard plant growth. Leave your plant roots as physically undisturbed as possible. 

Simple Reservoir

Simple Reservoir Passive Hydroponic MethodThe reservoir method is not much different to a wick feed system with the key difference being that there is no division between the reservoir and the root space. The reservoir is really the bottom of the grow bed and is filled with media. More suitable for media like hydroclay or gravel the roots grow down to below the high water mark and drink steadily during the day. A drain hole on the side of the grow bed determines the high water mark and I recommend that this is about 5cm (2") below the top of the growing media so that moss and algae wont take hold. 

I use a lot of passive reservoir systems like this in my own garden and I have found that they work quite effectively with growth rates at least as good as gardening in soil and generally much better. They are easy to make and very forgiving to the novice gardener. Drill a drain hole in an ice cream container, fill it with gravel, put a plant in it and see how you fare! 

Flood and Drain

Flood and drain hydroponic methodThe flood and drain method of hydroponics can be considered to be an active form of hydroponics, where the nutrient solution is pumped from a reservoir below to a tray which will hold either plants in individual pots containing media or alternately the tray itself may be filled with media. The nutrient is pumped into the tray which is filled until the return pipe is covered and the excess nutrient solution then returns to the reservoir. If you examine our flood and drain diagram to the right you will see that the return pipe protrudes into the tray, usually a distance of about 50mm or 60mm. This means that when the pump is running the tray will only fill up to 50-60mm before the nutrient returns to the tank. When the pump is switched off the water will drain completely out of the tray by flowing back through the pump. Do not use a pump that has a non return valve or the nutrient solution will be stuck there unable to drain away completely. 

Flood and drain is one of the simpler hydroponics methods to learn and it can be reasonably forgiving as far as pumping intervals and duration is concerned. Like all methods experimentation is the key to finding the optimal pumping intervals and durations for your particular environment. A good starting point would be to pump for 15 minutes every 2 hours during daylight hours and not at all during the night. 

Top Feed

Top feed hydroponic methodTop feed would have to be my most most favourite method of aquaculture. Flood and drain tends to develop massive root balls at and below the water line but top feed allows the entire growing media to be more thoroughly utilized. 

The water is pumped from the reservoir to feed bars that are positioned close to the base of the plant. The feed bar may simply be a tube (usually 10-13mm) that has holes approximately 3mm in size directed toward the base of the plant. I prefer a commercially available plastic dripper that is joined to the larger diameter feed bar by a length of 3mm ID flexible plastic tube. The nutrient solution should dribble onto the base of the plant and from there it will follow the plants root system. A flood and drain tray is a good place to place your plants however some growers find PVC tubing to be an economical option. The media may be place directly in the tray however 250mm plant pots can work just as well and be more cost effective with growing media. As top feed works on the media from the top to the bottom direct drainage is advised with the return pipe as pictured located directly at the bottom of the tray. 

Top feed hydroponics is also one of the simpler methods of hydroponics and can be a great starting point for learners. Experimentation is the key to finding an ideal pumping schedule that suits your environment. Pumping for 15 minutes every 3 hours during daylight hours and not at all at night is a good starting point. 

NFT

NFT hydroponic methodNFT stands for Nutrient Film Technique or Nutrient Flow Technique depending on who you talk to. NFT systems are one of the most productive hydroponic systems available and it is suggested that you experiment with one of the above systems and get a feel for hydroponics before jumping into NFT. 

The principle that NFT operates on is very simple. The plant is supported by a collar in the top of the grow chamber and the grow chamber itself is light proof. The roots grow into the grow chamber which has a shallow capillary mat on the bottom and the nutrient solution is pumped over the capillary mat constantly and drained immediately back into the reservoir. The majority of the roots will grow over the mat and nutrient will flow over them constantly allowing a maximum amount of air and nutrient to be absorbed. Growth rates achieved by NFT can be absolutely astounding with a little fine tuning. Once your current crop is completed the capillary mat and old root system is discarded, the grow chamber cleaned and sterilized and new matting is then placed on the bottom of the chamber ready for new seedlings or cuttings. Unfortunately, with no medium to hold water and nutrient, NFT is dependant on the flow of nutrient and if a pump or power failure causes the roots to dry out then the plants may die in a remarkably short time. 

Aeroponics

Aeroponic hydroponic methodAeroponics is similar to NFT in that the plants roots are suspended in a light proof grow chamber and once again no growing medium is used. The nutrient solution is pumped into a feeder pipe that has misting nozzles that mist the plants roots at regular intervals. The humidity in the grow chamber is kept at 100 percent at all times and the plants have maximum potential to absorb nutrient solution in the presence of air. 

As with NFT the growth rates in aeroponics can be incredible but the system is not very forgiving particularly if the pump stops and some fine tuning is required to get the misting/airation cycle just right. Aeroponics can be particulary effective at rooting cuttings.

There are several different systems used in hydroponic gardening and all of them are meant to improve the growers control over nutrient, water and oxygen supplies to the roots of the plant. In a hydroponics system the medium used in place of soil contains no nutrients of its own and these are supplied by the nutrient solution. The nutrient solution is circulated around the roots by any one of a number of methods and then is allowed to drain off. The extra oxygen around the roots allows the plants to take up nutrients faster and thus grow faster. It is a misconception that plant roots only require water and fertilizer, if this was all the plant roots received it would grow poorly and probably eventually die. 

The power of hydroponics is the ability to create a continuous cycle of watering, draining and aerating. The plants uptake of nutrients is increased and it grows in a more prolific manner. We can really consider there to be two types of hydroponic systems, passive and active. Passive hydroponics works by the capillary action of the wick and growing medium. Active hydroponics actively moves the nutrient over the roots and growing medium by way of a pump or similar device. There are four methods of hydroponics that I would consider suitable for beginners to attempt. Hydroponics is much more exact than soil gardening and we would suggest that you start small until you have learned your way a little bit before concreting your back yard and filling it full of hydroponic trays. 

Wick Feed

Wick Feed hydroponic methodThe Wick Feed pot is in my opinion the best way to learn the basics of hydroponics. They are readily available in many guises, cheap to purchase and economical to run. I have had excellent results with a 90/10 perlite/vermiculite mix in a wick feed pot purchased for a few dollars from my local K-Mart. 

The Media is placed in the wick feed pot, which resembles a normal plant pot with a reservoir underneath. The plant of course is also placed in the the pot in the media when it is a seedling. As the plant grows its roots will run into the reservoir through the holes in the bottom of the pot and it will drink directly from the reservoir. Particularly when the plant is young I recommend watering them from the top of the pot and allowing it to run into the reservoir through the growing media. It is wise to water in this fashion until the plants roots have visibly made it into the reservoir. 

On some wick feed pots the reservoir is removable and I recommend these as they are easier to clean when you are replanting. Do not remove it while you are growing in the pot as damaged roots will retard plant growth. Leave your plant roots as physically undisturbed as possible. 

Simple Reservoir

Simple Reservoir Passive Hydroponic MethodThe reservoir method is not much different to a wick feed system with the key difference being that there is no division between the reservoir and the root space. The reservoir is really the bottom of the grow bed and is filled with media. More suitable for media like hydroclay or gravel the roots grow down to below the high water mark and drink steadily during the day. A drain hole on the side of the grow bed determines the high water mark and I recommend that this is about 5cm (2") below the top of the growing media so that moss and algae wont take hold. 

I use a lot of passive reservoir systems like this in my own garden and I have found that they work quite effectively with growth rates at least as good as gardening in soil and generally much better. They are easy to make and very forgiving to the novice gardener. Drill a drain hole in an ice cream container, fill it with gravel, put a plant in it and see how you fare! 

Flood and Drain

Flood and drain hydroponic methodThe flood and drain method of hydroponics can be considered to be an active form of hydroponics, where the nutrient solution is pumped from a reservoir below to a tray which will hold either plants in individual pots containing media or alternately the tray itself may be filled with media. The nutrient is pumped into the tray which is filled until the return pipe is covered and the excess nutrient solution then returns to the reservoir. If you examine our flood and drain diagram to the right you will see that the return pipe protrudes into the tray, usually a distance of about 50mm or 60mm. This means that when the pump is running the tray will only fill up to 50-60mm before the nutrient returns to the tank. When the pump is switched off the water will drain completely out of the tray by flowing back through the pump. Do not use a pump that has a non return valve or the nutrient solution will be stuck there unable to drain away completely. 

Flood and drain is one of the simpler hydroponics methods to learn and it can be reasonably forgiving as far as pumping intervals and duration is concerned. Like all methods experimentation is the key to finding the optimal pumping intervals and durations for your particular environment. A good starting point would be to pump for 15 minutes every 2 hours during daylight hours and not at all during the night. 

Top Feed

Top feed hydroponic methodTop feed would have to be my most most favourite method of aquaculture. Flood and drain tends to develop massive root balls at and below the water line but top feed allows the entire growing media to be more thoroughly utilized. 

The water is pumped from the reservoir to feed bars that are positioned close to the base of the plant. The feed bar may simply be a tube (usually 10-13mm) that has holes approximately 3mm in size directed toward the base of the plant. I prefer a commercially available plastic dripper that is joined to the larger diameter feed bar by a length of 3mm ID flexible plastic tube. The nutrient solution should dribble onto the base of the plant and from there it will follow the plants root system. A flood and drain tray is a good place to place your plants however some growers find PVC tubing to be an economical option. The media may be place directly in the tray however 250mm plant pots can work just as well and be more cost effective with growing media. As top feed works on the media from the top to the bottom direct drainage is advised with the return pipe as pictured located directly at the bottom of the tray. 

Top feed hydroponics is also one of the simpler methods of hydroponics and can be a great starting point for learners. Experimentation is the key to finding an ideal pumping schedule that suits your environment. Pumping for 15 minutes every 3 hours during daylight hours and not at all at night is a good starting point. 

NFT

NFT hydroponic methodNFT stands for Nutrient Film Technique or Nutrient Flow Technique depending on who you talk to. NFT systems are one of the most productive hydroponic systems available and it is suggested that you experiment with one of the above systems and get a feel for hydroponics before jumping into NFT. 

The principle that NFT operates on is very simple. The plant is supported by a collar in the top of the grow chamber and the grow chamber itself is light proof. The roots grow into the grow chamber which has a shallow capillary mat on the bottom and the nutrient solution is pumped over the capillary mat constantly and drained immediately back into the reservoir. The majority of the roots will grow over the mat and nutrient will flow over them constantly allowing a maximum amount of air and nutrient to be absorbed. Growth rates achieved by NFT can be absolutely astounding with a little fine tuning. Once your current crop is completed the capillary mat and old root system is discarded, the grow chamber cleaned and sterilized and new matting is then placed on the bottom of the chamber ready for new seedlings or cuttings. Unfortunately, with no medium to hold water and nutrient, NFT is dependant on the flow of nutrient and if a pump or power failure causes the roots to dry out then the plants may die in a remarkably short time. 

Aeroponics

Aeroponic hydroponic methodAeroponics is similar to NFT in that the plants roots are suspended in a light proof grow chamber and once again no growing medium is used. The nutrient solution is pumped into a feeder pipe that has misting nozzles that mist the plants roots at regular intervals. The humidity in the grow chamber is kept at 100 percent at all times and the plants have maximum potential to absorb nutrient solution in the presence of air. 

As with NFT the growth rates in aeroponics can be incredible but the system is not very forgiving particularly if the pump stops and some fine tuning is required to get the misting/airation cycle just right. Aeroponics can be particulary effective at rooting cuttings.

Of all of the forms of horticulture used over the last 10,000 years hydroponics seems to be the most misunderstood. Simple hydroponic gardens do not require a university degree to create and with a little practice anyone can grow just about anything, often with better results than organic gardening. Successful hydroponic gardening can be a joyfull and rewarding experience and simple hydroponics systems can be created with a minimal investment of time and money. 

The word hydroponics is derived from the greek words hydro, meaning water, and ponos, meaning labour. It refers to the many methods of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions instead of soil. The plants may be grown with their root systems suspended in the nutrient solution or in an inert medium, which replaces soil and provides an anchor point for the plant root to grow. There are many different types of growing medium such as perlite, various volcanic rocks or clays and mineral wool. In nature the soil acts as a reservoir for the nutrients plants require but the soil itself is not necessary for the plants to grow. Many different plants will grow in hydroponics but some respond better to others to this gardening technique. 

Of all of the forms of horticulture used over the last 10,000 years hydroponics seems to be the most misunderstood. Simple hydroponic gardens do not require a university degree to create and with a little practice anyone can grow just about anything, often with better results than organic gardening. Successful hydroponic gardening can be a joyfull and rewarding experience and simple hydroponics systems can be created with a minimal investment of time and money. 

The word hydroponics is derived from the greek words hydro, meaning water, and ponos, meaning labour. It refers to the many methods of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions instead of soil. The plants may be grown with their root systems suspended in the nutrient solution or in an inert medium, which replaces soil and provides an anchor point for the plant root to grow. There are many different types of growing medium such as perlite, various volcanic rocks or clays and mineral wool. In nature the soil acts as a reservoir for the nutrients plants require but the soil itself is not necessary for the plants to grow. Many different plants will grow in hydroponics but some respond better to others to this gardening technique.